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Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
The Physics of Noseriding
The Physics of Noseriding
The Physics of Noseriding

The science of surfing’s fluid dance.

Watch
10:03
Lāhainā, One Year Later
Lāhainā, One Year Later
Lāhainā, One Year Later
Beau Flemister

After a devastating wildfire, the community of West Maui continues to recover and rebuild.

13 min Read
Totoganashi
Totoganashi
Totoganashi

For surfer Yusei Ikariyama to save his home waters, he’ll have to first unite his community.

Watch
21:55
The Wave below the Sleeping Rabbit
The Wave below the Sleeping Rabbit
The Wave below the Sleeping Rabbit
Kyle Thiermann

Meet the man working to save Mexico’s Punta Conejo.

11 min Read
The Quest to Save 100 Waves in Peru
The Quest to Save 100 Waves in Peru
The Quest to Save 100 Waves in Peru
Bruno Monteferri

A friendship built between waves becomes a powerful alliance for the protection of surf breaks.

9 min Read
Living on Easy
Living on Easy
Living on Easy
Gerry Lopez

A trip to Amami Ōshima, Japan, transports Gerry Lopez to a familiar feeling on a distant land.

7 min Read
Abundance and the January Swell Bender of 2023
Abundance and the January Swell Bender of 2023
Abundance and the January Swell Bender of 2023
Liam Wilmott

A captain’s log from the biggest swell to hit
O‘ahu’s outer reefs in recent memory.

16 min Read
A Hog of a Swell Greets the Eddie
A Hog of a Swell Greets the Eddie
A Hog of a Swell Greets the Eddie
Morgan Williamson

Scenes from ground zero of the greatest surf event in seven years.

9 min Read
Foam Dust – 25 Years of FCD
Foam Dust – 25 Years of FCD
Foam Dust – 25 Years of FCD

The indefinite history of FCD Surfboards. 

Watch
41:00
Land of the Midnight Surf
Land of the Midnight Surf
Land of the Midnight Surf
Morgan Williamson

Inside Yakutat Surf Club’s budding stoke scene in Southeast Alaska.

14 min Read
Not Just Good Surfers, Good People
Not Just Good Surfers, Good People
Not Just Good Surfers, Good People
Cash Lambert

There’s more to life than three-to-the-beach, surf contest results and a clean cutback.

6 min Read
Point Break Medicine
Point Break Medicine
Point Break Medicine
Todd Prodanovich

An exchange of waves and Indigenous cultural practices on the Pacific coast of Mexico.

9 min Read
The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez
The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez
The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez

The path to enlightenment begins at the world’s deadliest wave.

Watch
100:49
Emergent Seas
Emergent Seas
Emergent Seas
Lauren L. Hill

Exploring motherhood and meaningful play.

10 min Read
Silence, Water, Hope
Silence, Water, Hope
Silence, Water, Hope
Andrew O’Reilly

Protecting the ocean is what friends are for.

5 min Read
Pointless Beauty: The Art of Bodysurfing
Pointless Beauty: The Art of Bodysurfing
Pointless Beauty: The Art of Bodysurfing
Rory Parker

Where worthless and priceless collide.

4 min Read
The Real Hidden Gems of the West Coast
The Real Hidden Gems of the West Coast
The Real Hidden Gems of the West Coast
Miles Masterson

Big Mineral Mining is tearing up the coastline and restricting access to some of South Africa’s most pristine beaches and waves—and it’s getting way out of hand.

7 min Read
Big-Wave Surfing: The Safety Paradox
Big-Wave Surfing: The Safety Paradox
Big-Wave Surfing: The Safety Paradox
Greg Long

Are the recent advancements in safety equipment and protocols making big-wave surfing more dangerous?

9 min Read
Anchoring for Change
Anchoring for Change
Anchoring for Change
Morgan Williamson

How Captain Liz Clark’s Tahitian residency opened a new chapter in her activist work.

5 min Read
The Joy of Junky Windslop
The Joy of Junky Windslop
The Joy of Junky Windslop
Daniel Duane

Tapping into the beginner’s mind while teaching his daughter to surf.

8 min Read
Biirrinba is Life
Biirrinba is Life
Biirrinba is Life
Alistair Klinkenberg

Childhood friends, Hayley Talbot and Dan Ross, are determined to save a mighty river.

6 min Read
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Malik Peay

Building positivity, inspiration and purpose out of a racist encounter in Los Angeles.

5 min Read
A New Surf Culture
A New Surf Culture
A New Surf Culture
Stephanie Vermillion

This Great Lakes surfer never felt represented in the surf scene, so she created a new surf culture of her own.

6 min Read
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Gabriela Aoun

Seasoned waterman, master woodworker and Patagonia Surf Ambassador Ben Wilkinson channels his skills toward a new environmental calling.

5 min Read
On Letting Go
On Letting Go
On Letting Go
Morgan Williamson

Ramón Navarro and Kohl Christensen bring Léa Brassy into the jaws of a Chilean monster.

4 min Read
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
Morgan Williamson

How a nonprofit that takes San Francisco kids surfing expanded its work in 2020.

6 min Read
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
Kim McCoy & Willard Newell Bascom

Coauthor Kim McCoy recounts discovering the mystery of what lies beneath the waves, where ocean and land meet and compete.

5 min Read
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
Gabriela Aoun

A look into surfing’s impact vests and the people they’ve brought back home.

8 min Read
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
Morgan Williamson

Clyde Aikau on why the most culturally significant big-wave event in surfing will always matter.

7 min Read
Connected by Water
Connected by Water
Connected by Water

From 2-foot to 20-foot, the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group (BWRAG) is sparking a global movement in surf safety.

Watch
7:53
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Morgan Williamson

Kohl Christensen discusses how BWRAG came to be and his recent near-death experience courtesy of Pipeline's reef.

7 min Read
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
Morgan Williamson

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, its cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

19 min Read
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Matt Skenazy

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

4 min Read
Net Positive
Net Positive
Net Positive
Adam Skolnick

How discarded plastic fishing nets found their way into our hat brims.

3 min Read
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
Kyle Thiermann

And why you should do it now.

7 min Read
The Unridden
The Unridden
The Unridden
Kosuke Fujikura

If you don’t get what you came for, be sure to enjoy the ride.

4 min Read
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